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Rat Care
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Introduction
Cages
Choosing your rats
Food
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Introduction
If you're reading this, then no doubt you are already attracted to the idea of rats as pets - and indeed, they make exceptionally good pets. Rats are highly intelligent and inquisitive pets that will give you hours of entertainment and unconditional love.
However, before committing yourself to buying any pet, you should consider the following questions and answer them honestly:
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Are you committed enough to look after your pets for 365 days a year, every year?
Do you have space for the size of cage your pets will require?
Are there any other animals in the household that might take an unhealthy interest in your pets?
Are you prepared for all the attendant costs of looking after your pets, i.e. food, vet bills, etc?
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After answering these questions, you still feel prepared to take on rats as pets, there are a few other factors to consider.
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Rat Life Spans: The average lifespan of a rat is about 2 1/2 to 3 years, though this can vary. Pet shop rats, on the whole, tend to be shorter lived than those obtained from breeders; that said, I had a male rat named Brock who came from a petshop and died at the ripe old age of 5 1/2! This is something you should bear in mind when choosing rats as pets.
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One Rat or Three?: Note that each time, I have referred to pets; plural. Rats are social creatures, and a single rat on its own will be a bored, unhappy rat. You should always get at least two rats, preferrably three; that way, when they are older, should one die due to old age or illness, the remaining two will comfort each other. Single rats will mourn the death of a close companion and pine, and often do not live much longer after a bereavement.
There are other good reasons for getting more than one rat. Two rats will live just as happily in the size of cage required for one. They do not create an appreciably larger amount of mess than one. And they can keep each other occupied and entertained whilst you are not there. Rats are gregarious animals and are always far happier with others of their own species around.
However, unless you want unexpected population explosions, you should always go for same-sex pairings or groups. Bucks (male rats) can live very happily in groups together, as do does (female rats).
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Boys or Girls? Both bucks and does make good pets. It depends on whether you want an active inquisitive pet or a nice cuddly "shoulder" rat. On the whole, does are more active than bucks, and will want to explore you, your clothes, your desk and anything else they can reach! Bucks, on the other hand, prefer to snuggle up for a cuddle or sit on your shoulder and watch the world go by. However, you will occasionally come across the hyperactive buck or the placid cuddly doe.
Bucks do tend to grow larger than does; the average weight for an adult doe is about 350-400g, whereas most bucks will easily reach 450g or heavier. However, bear in mind that most petshop rats tend to be smaller, as they mostly come from commercial breeders who tend to overbreed their does, resulting in smaller rats that tend to be less healthy than those from a reputable breeder.
Bucks also tend to be a bit smellier than does, and some bucks will leave "scent trails" of urine wherever they go. However, if you clean the cage out regularly, you will not find this to be a problem in the way that it is with male mice, for example.
At the end of the day, whether you prefer bucks or does is really a matter of personal choice.
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Cages
Before you think about buying your rats, you must make sure their new home is ready. There's no point in going to see a breeder, bringing home two of the cutest little ratties ever - and having no-where to put them when you get them home!!
There are many styles of home available these days that are suitable for rats. Some people prefer to keep their rats in a large aquarium; personally I prefer wire cages. An aquarium large enough to house two rats is usually well out of the reach financially of most people; and if you do not clean out an aquarium every day or two, the build-up of ammonia from the rats' urine will damage the rats' lungs, leading to respiratory problems. I personally only use an aquarium tank as a "nursing" pen for sick animals.
Rats are inquisitive creatures that like room to explore. They like long narrow cages with plenty of height, a selection of platforms at various levels on which to nest and a toilet area away from food and bedding. Two rats can be housed in a cage 60cm x 30cm x 30cm minimum - but the larger the cage the better.
There are several manufacturers who make good rat cages; the Supapet range is popular, as are the Terenziani cages. There are several suppliers who stock suitable cages; try the following:
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You can use adapted chinchilla cages; it isn't recommended that you use ferret cages for young rats though, as it is too easy for them to squeeze out between the bars! Ferret cages are fine for older rats, however.
The floor of the cage should be solid, as grille or mesh floors can be uncomfortable to rats' feet. There is some debate as to what should be used to line the cage floor with. Sawdust is too fine and dusty and will irritate the rats' delicate lungs. You should avoid pine or cedar woodshavings, as the oils from these woods exude vapours that are toxic to rats. However, there are many excellent proprietory brands of woodshavings that are suitable for rodents which you can use. Many rat breeders prefer to use a paper-based cat litter such as Bio-Catolet. Shredded paper should be provided for bedding; cotton wool should never be used, as strands can easily become entwined around ratty toes and cut off circulation.
Rats should ideally be housed indoors in temperatures between 15-27C (59-82F). Temperatures above 30C (88F) can induce a stroke.
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